General information

Machine fancywork is a special type of embroidery, performed by special robotlike machines, functioning according to the man’s adjusted program.

This man is designer, constructor. He creates the fancywork program (design) – the machine surgery algorithm, which may be in consequence repeated bottomless count of times. The machine following the granted program, automatically executes the fancywork on material. In this way, the primary characteristics of machine fancywork are the absence of manual toil at the stage of outright embroidery, & the possibility of fancywork samples duplication.

The machine fancywork is a past kind of activity, in counterpoint to manual embroidery, existent for 1000s of years. The machine fancywork started its beingness nearly 50 years agone & in 1980-ies the enquire of the profession of machine fancywork decorator started to grow. Nowadays the enquire is in reality as well. During the period of machine fancywork existence, its founding applied science has altered on the far side recognition.

The robots that once used as source of data the punched card, restricted in speed & grade of embroidery, were replaced by microprocessor-based, extremely productive, multihead robots with progressed applied science equipment, optimising the fancywork process.

The procedure of machine fancywork technologically consists of 2 closely affiliated stages:

The fancywork design stage, or the building stage of machine embroidery-represents the procedure of founding of fancywork machine program. At this stage are highly-developed the building portions of machine embroidery.
The theoretical stage represents the proceed fancywork manufacture by means of machine. At this stage are highly-developed the theoretical portions of machine embroidery.

Both this stages are at the same time rather autonomous from the point of view of manufacture, which helps to distinguish them & to mark out 2 another significant types of industrial action accordingly. It is a doubt of enterprises that are specialised straightaway in program creation, or in materially fancywork creation. Each of these manufacture branches develops round itself a branching infrastructure system.

For example, today there are a fine count of producers of special program maintenance for machine embroidery, of fancywork robots & special concomitant gear producers, of expenditure materials producers, used for fancywork manufacture. Many companies, in accordance with machine fancywork subdivision wants are adjusting the directions of its activity. For example, the producers of textile dye things make special adjustments of qualities & spectrum, the enclothing producers alter the construction, adjusting it to the applied science of machine fancywork manufacture.

Field of machine fancywork use

Historically the fancywork had, premier of all, a decorative character. Nowadays this indispensable belongings amenable affected its use in advertising branch. We oftentimes watch the fancywork acquitting advertising-informational character, on enclothing objects & else ready-made garments.

Machine fancywork as advertising; informational bearer

Embroidery may be an effectual advertising-informational means, at the same time without loosing its esthetic expressiveness. It is oftentimes used at sell marks plotting on the cloth, leather, felt, as well as on total products, garments etc. At fancywork it is possible the reproduction of sell mark of all colour combination. The sell mark, plotted on by this method, oftentimes turns into fashionable attribute of report & becomes an organic component of its composition. It is possible to embroider on another types of clothes, including uniform, working clothes. The fancywork as distinctive indicant to any current of action is widely used in numerous countries. Very often the firm workers bear the derivative omen of their company. It may be a logotype on the head gear, on the front side of the sweater or on the back side of the jacket.

The textile embroidery, on numerous indexes passes forward of its rivals, like serigraphy or decal decor (transfer seal). The fancywork is more lasting, the steadiness of threads colour is higher, the volumetric pattern of fancywork confers more costly & spectacular anatomy to the logotype. That is wherefore most of the firms, transaction with advertising campaigns development, suggest to their customers the really embroidery. The fancywork may be performed on another parts of garments & on another articles. On head gears (caps, unwoven caps), sport shirts, shirts, tolstovkas, even on footwear.

Technical constituent of machine embroidery

During the bicycle of machine fancywork manufacturing is applied another means & tools. However, begining from the handiness of 2 significant stages of manufacture, it may be marketplace 2 significant related tools of machine embroidery.

They are:

The electronic with congruous program maintenance & peripherals on the building stage of manufacture. Automatic fancywork machine with concomitant supplemental gear on the technological stage of manufacture.

Let us listing the significant data of industrial robotlike fancywork robots & numerous supplemental special concomitant equipment. Industrial robotlike fancywork robots according to fulfilled action & principle of surgery may be fractioned in 2 groups:

Universal robotlike fancywork machines.
Special robotlike fancywork machines.

To special robotlike fancywork robots may be attributed the robots utilising not rather classical fancywork methods, robots that are capable to execute fancywork on out-of-the-way locations of total merchandises & on materials that are hard for embroidery. To one of the most usually used type of special robotlike fancywork robots may be attributed the so phoned Schiffli, robots that allow making fancywork with the utilization of decorative cord, to split through material & at the same time to procedure the split by embroidery. These robots are mostly used for finalizing of airy & thin, translucent, fashioned & else intelligent textile & reports made out of it. For instance, Schiffli robots are often used at wedding ceremony dresses decoration.

Quite newly it looked a new fascinating kind of robotlike special embroidery-the so phoned no-thread-embroidery & robotlike no-thread fancywork machines. The principle of surgery of such robots has a remote conformity with principle of developing of needle-punched fabrics. It consists in the truth that the machine with a set of needles (24 needles) runs for through the structure of the primary (working) material the locks of fibers of special auxiliary material. The auxiliary material is laid below the primary material. After the auxiliary material removing on the primary material remains an effective, unique pattern (picture).

Nowadays the leader in yield of no-thread fancywork robots is the Japan Company Tanaka. In 2001 mode exhibit in Berlin & Paris were presented astonishing collections made with the aid of no-thread fancywork on “Vari-O-Matic” machine of this company. To universal robotlike fancywork robots are related the robots of lock-stitch with coordinate displaced frame holder which is meant for manufacture of fancywork with threads on classical & most far-flung materials & articles. The use of such robots supposes numerous limitations in properties of used materials & constructions of total products.

But these limitations are constantly growing narrower owed to lasting modernization & improvement of universal robotlike fancywork robots & owed to use of manifold auxiliary facilities & special devices. All recognized universal robotlike fancywork robots are of lock-stitch type of robots & the structure of numerous parts of the mechanism has numerous similarities with lock-stitch fancywork machines.

The primary parts of single-head universal robotlike fancywork machine are column, case, frame holder & head. The subject is restored on column & consists of pole & cantilevered arm. Inside the upper section of column is installed the stitch mechanism. Inside the subject is installed the primary shaft mechanism. On the head is disposed a set of needle mechanisms with thread takeup & thread guidebook mechanisms. The head is capable to shift from subject in the horizontal position, engaging with the primary shaft stirring up the wanted needle mechanism.

This enables the machine to make the shift of the thread colour at one fancywork run. The frame holder mechanism is capable to shift the frame holder in a horizontal layer in four directions from the dynamic needle. The shift is made in step-type on coordinate according to granted fancywork program. In this path the machine may make loch-stitches on material of another length & in any granted order & direction, executing whenever wanted the shift of working needle with the thread of the obvious color. The industrial robotlike fancywork robots may be both single-headed & with couple of heads & with related count of required working mechanisms. The last are phoned numerous headed or multihead robotlike fancywork machines.

Under normal conditions of fancywork all the heads & frame holders mechanisms works synchronously.

The significant indexes of industrial fancywork machines

Speed of embroidery.

It is expressed through quantity of stitches per minute. The fancywork speed may be adjusted both manually & automatically although embroidering. The optimal fancywork speed of modern robots oscillates between 700-900 stitches per minute. Maximum speed reaches 1200-1400 stitches per minute.

Number of working heads.

In modern multihead robots the head numbers come to 2-4 heads.

The sized of working region or the maximum sized of used frame.

This indicant is pertained with possible sized of performed embroidery. It is expressed through correlation of length & width of the working region in millimeters & is regulated for flat & cylindrical frame (used for caps, sleeves, etc). There are announce the correlations 800×600, 500×400 & other-for flat frame; 360×75, 400×350 & else for cylindrical frame.

Needle quantity.

It is equivalent to the count of needles on one head. It is characterized by maximal possible count of thread colours used at one run for for of embroidery. The possible needle count in modern robots is from 1 to 12. The most announce are the robots with 9 needles. Other significant indexes are the noise & vibration level, the compatibility of machine with another classical fancywork programs, the presence of accessories, wrongdoing of additive measurements of fancywork elements.

The supplements may be presented through another supplemental hinged device for robotlike let-off of decorative cord or ribbon, extended shape terminal, systems of laser & video navigation of working area, supplemental laser trimers (device for thread cutting) & other.

The concomitant gear may be presented through devices of fancywork evaporation, several press gear for glue chevron & braid production, special cloth-cutting machine in the shape of laser cutter-machines, that may automatically split of or drift on markings on cloth, which is widely used at aggregated with fancywork appliqueworks production.

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